Reminiscences of the conquering climbers of MANASLU.

A Chronological Table 1950-1996

Compiled by Tsunemichi IKEDA

 From "Sangaku" official journal of the Japanese Alpine Club, Vol.91, 1996

 

1950  H. W. Tilman and his party made a reconnaissance of Manaslu from Bimtakhotii in the Dudh Khola valley in May. Three months later, after an unsuccessful attempt on Annapurna 4, they returned to Bimtakhotii. J. O. M. Roberts who crossed over Larkya Bhanjyang pass reported that he found a possible route to the summit plateau of Manaslu by the northeast.

1952  A Japanese reconnaissance party of six, led by Kinji Imanishi, also examined the western side of the mountain after an unsuccessful attempt on Annapurna 4 in autumn. They, then crossed over Larkya Bhanjyang pass and made it to base camp above Sama Village. They stepped in to the Manaslu Glacier and reached just below the Naike Col to find their route up the NE Face would be the most possible line to the summit plateau. They also reached a 5275m point on the E Ridge and observed the SE Face which seemed to be impossible.

1953 A 15-member Japanese Alpine Club party, led by Yukio Mita, made the first attempt to the NE Face in spring. BC was established on April 12 on the left bank of the Manaslu Glacier at 3850m. On June 1, after making nine camps, Kiichiro Kato, Jiro Yamada and Shojiro Ishizaka made the summit bid but retreated at the highest point of 7750 m.

1954 A 14-member Japanese Alpine Club party, led by Yaichi Hotta, planned the second bid by the same route in spring. At Sama they faced trouble : the villagers refused their entrance to the mountain, and the expedition had to withdraw to the Ganesh Himal. They made an unsuccessful attempt to Ganesh Himal I by the Thoro Gompa Glacier.

1955 Eizaburo Nishibori and Iwao Naruse went to Kathmandu in spring to negotiate for permission to climb Manaslu in autumn of 1955 and spring of 1956. A 3-member advance party, led by Katsuro Ohara, could pass through Sama without any trouble and reconnoitered as far as Naike Col in autumn.

1956 A 12-member Japanese Alpine Club party, led by Yuko Maki, finally made the first ascent of Manaslu in spring. From the North Col to the plateau, they took a little bit different line from the former attempt and made C 6 at a 7800 m point on the summit plateau. On May 9, Toshio Imanishi and Sirdar Gyalzen Norbu reached the summit. Two days later on the 11th, Kiichiro Kato and Minoru Higeta also made the summit. It was the first 8000 er for the Japanese climbers.

1970 A 2-member Japanese party, led by Satoshi Aoki, reconnoitered the W Face of Manaslu in autumn. They entered the Domen Khola valley to find a possible line on the NW Spur which merges into the western edge of the summit plateau.

1971 An 11-member Japanese Tokyo party, led by Akira Takahashi, made the first ascent of the NW Spur in spring. They advanced six camps on the steep and difficult spur and on May 17, Kazuharu Kohara and Motoki Tanaka reached the summit. It was the second ascent of the mountain.

1971 An 8-member Korean party, led by Ho-Sup Kim, attempted the Japanese route on the NE Face in the same season. On May 4, Ki-Sup Kim fell to his death at a 7600 m point and they abandoned the summit.

1972 A 9-member Austrian party, led by Wolfgang Nairz, made the first ascent of the SW Face by the Thulagi Glacier in spring. They climbed the route without oxygen and on April 25, Reinhold Messner from South Tyrol reached the summit alone. He was caught by a terrible storm on his way down to the top camp and finally returned there after a desperate struggle. Franz Jaeger and Andy Schrick were lost in the storm on the summit plateau.

1972  A 12-member Korean party, led by Jung-Sup Kim, met with a disaster on the NE Face route in the same season. On April 10, C 3 at 6500m was overwhelmed by a huge avalanche. Five climbers including the leader and Kazunari Yasuhisa from Japan with ten Sherpas perished. The highest point reached was 6950 m.

1973 An 8-member West German party, led by Gerhard Schmatz, made the second ascent of the Japanese route on the NE Face in spring. After advanced five camps, the leader Schmatz, Sigi Hupfauer and Urkien Sherpa reached the summit on April 22.

1973  A 12-member Spanish party, led by Jaume Garcia Orts, unsuccessfully attempted the NE Face route in autumn. The climb was abandoned after their C 1 and C2 had been swept by avalanches between October 10 and 13. The highest point reached was 6100 m.

1974 A 13-member Japanese Ladies party, led by general leader Kyoko Sato, made an attempt on the E Ridge. After reaching a high point of 7000 m they shifted their plan to repeat the original route on the NE Face. On May 4, Naoko Nakaseko, Masako Uchida, Mieko Mori and Jambu Sherpa reached the summit. It was the first female ascent of any 8000er. Next day on the 5 th, Sadako Suzuki of the second team fell to her death between C 4 and C 5. Her body could not be found.

1975 A 12-member Spanish party, led by Jaume Garcia Orts, succeeded in repeating the NE Face route in their second attempt after 1973. On April 26, Gerald Garcia, Jeronimo Lopez and Sonam Sherpa reached the summit.

1976 A 19-member Korean party, led by Jung-Sup Kim, attempted the NE Face route in spring. They advanced five camps and reached a 7800 m point but abandoned the summit after the leader and the climbing leader Kyoung-Bae Kim had been injured by an avalanche on May 5.

1976 A 20-member Iranian-Japanese party, co-led by Mohammed Khakbiz (I) and Kohei Watanabe (J), repeated the NE Face route in autumn. On October 12, Jun Kageyama (J), J. M. Assadi (I) and Pasang Sherpa made the summit.

1977 A 9-member West German party, led by Gerhard Lenser, failed on the NE Face route in spring. They established three camps but abandoned the summit at a 6780 m point due to adverse weather and avalanches.

1977 A 5-member French party, led by Jean Frehel, attempted the E Ridge in a semi-alpine style push in autumn. Pierre Beghin and Thiery Leroy who had reached 7560 m on October 26 were badly frostbitten and evacuated from BC to Kathmandu by a helicopter.

1978  An 11-member American party, led by Glenn Porzak, failed on the NE Face route in spring. The expedition was abandoned due to heavy snow falls after making four camps. The highest point reached was 7315 m.

1978  Seiji Shimizu and Yasuo Kato from Japan attempted a light weight ascent on the NE Face route in autumn. The pair, after established five camps assisted by six Sherpas, made the summit bid on October 7 but retreated at a 8000 m point by the waist-deep snow on the plateau.

1979 A 6-member Italian party, led by Lorenzo Massarotto, narrowly escaped from a disaster in spring. They established four camps on the NE Face route. On May 5, C 4 at 7350 m was overwhelmed by an avalanche and two climbers and two Sherpas were buried under the snow. They luckily evacuated themselves, however, all the four were badly frostbitten. Later on the 10 th, other climbers reached a high point of 7500 m.

1979 A 14-member Argentine party, led by Guillermo Vieiro, also avalanched on the same NE Face route in autumn. On October 9, Edgardo Jose Porsellana was killed and the expedition was abandoned at a high point of 6560 m.

1980 A 7-member Korean Dong-Guk University party, led by In-Jung Lee, repeated the NE Face route in spring. They made a rapid progress and established a top camp at 7500 m on April 21. Summit bids were failed twice and finally on 28 th, Dong-Hwan Son, Sherpas Ang Pasang and Ang Zawa made the summit. It was the first Korean ascent of the mountain.

1980 A 9-member Polish party, led by Janusz Ferenski, made the first attempt on the S Ridge by the Punggyen Glacier in spring. They advanced two camps on the glacier but the climb was prevented by frequent avalanches. The expedition was abandoned on May 17 at a high point of 6550 m.

1980  A 7-member Austrian party, led by Hanns Schell, attempted the NE Face route in autumn. On October 14, three climbers including the leader and four Sherpas reached a 7400 m point beneath the edge of the summit plateau but the climb was abandoned at the point.

1980 A 12-member Czechoslovak party, led by Dina Sterbova, originally planned to attempt the S Ridge and shifted their route on the NE Face in autumn. They established four camps up to 6900 m and three women and a man reached a 7200 m point but abandoned the summit on October 16.

1981 A 28-member West German party, organized by Hauser Ekskursionen International on commercial basis, climbed the NE Face route in spring. The expedition was consisted of two groups; a 13-member party was led by Hans von Kaenel and a 15-member party was led by Bernd Schreckenbach. They advanced five camps up to 7450m and sent 13 climbers and two Sherpas to the summit in three batches. The summitters were; the leader von Kaenel, Juergen Mecke and Wangchu Sherpa on May 7, Anderl Loferer, Karl Horn, Fredy Graf, Hans Zebrowski and Hansjoerg Mueller on the 9th, Walter Heimbach, Ruediger Schleipen, Peter Woergoetter, Sepp Millinger, Peter Weber, Stefan Woerner and Pasang Sherpa on the 19 th. Woergoetter and Millinger made the first ski descent from the summit and Loferer at the age of 62 was the oldest person ever to stand on the summit of any 8000 er.

1981 A 4-member French party, led by Pierre Beghin, made the first ascent of the W Face by the Domen Khola valley in autumn. They climbed the route in semi-alpine style with only two fixed camps and on October 7, the leader Beghin and Bernard Muller reached the summit after bivouacking at 7400 m. Next day on the 8 th, Gerard Bretin also made the summit bid but retreated at the edge of the summit plateau.

1981  Yasuo Kato, Takashi Ozaki and Masaaki Tomita from Japan made a light weight ascent of the NE Face route in autumn. The trio advanced three camps in cooperation with four Sherpas within ten days after BC and on October 12, Ozaki made the summit alone. Two days later on the 14 th, Kato and Tomita also made the summit.

1982 A 6-member Spanish party, led by Enric Font, met with a disaster on the NE Face route in spring. On May 10, the leader Font and Pere Aymerich made the summit bid and retreated from a 7600 m point. They spent the night at C 5 (7400 m) and radioed that they would descend because of shortage of foods. Next morning, however, they did not respond to the radio calls. On the 12 th when the weather was recovered, four members at C 2 found a huge avalanche had eliminated C 5.

1982 A 14-member French-Italian party, led by Louis Audoubert, repeated the NE Face route in autumn. On October 10, the leader Audoubert and Nawang Tenzing Sherpa set out their top camp at 7450 m and reached the summit.

1982 A 5-member Chamonix Guide party of France, led by Jean-Paul Balmat, abandoned the E Ridge at a high point of 6200 m in the same season. They, then intended to climb the NE Face route where the French-Italian party had been active and made C 1 at Naike Col. Although the leader Audoubert accepted Balma's party to try the same route, the liaison officers insisted them to get the approval by the authority in Kathmandu. Balmat and his party had to wait for six days and got the answer no", after all.

1982 A 10-member Himalayan Association of Japan party, led by Noboru Yamada, attempted the first winter ascent by the NE Face route in December. On the 18 th, Takashi Sakuma, Fuji Tsunoda and Hiroshi Aota made the summit bid but prevented by strong wind at 7650 m on the plateau. On the way down, Sakuma fell to his death.

1983 A Yugoslav party, led by Vinko Mroevec, attempted the S Ridge by the Thulagi Glacier in spring. On April 24, Jernej Zaplotnik and Ante Bucan were killed by an avalanche at a 4500 m point and the expedition had to abandon the climb. The highest point reached was 7100 m.

1983 A 9-member West German party, led by Guenter Haerter, also made an attempt by the same route in autumn. They proceeded to C 4 at 7400 m and made the summit bid on October 18 but retreated at a 7500 m point because of shortage of climbing gears. They, then shifted to the Austrian route on the SW Face and climbed in alpine style. On the 22 th, the leader Haerter, Herbert Streibel, Hubert Wehrs, Hermann Tauber, Sherpas Ang Dorje and Nima Rita made the summit after two bivouacs at 6600 m and 7400 m. It was the second ascent of the route.

1983  Young-Ho Huh from Korea climbed the NE Face route in autumn. He established three camps and fixed some ropes assisted by two Sherpas and made the summit bid alone. He, once prevented at a 7700 m point on October 8, set out BC on the 19 th and got to the summit three days later. He met Haerter and his party near the summit on his way down.

1983 A 5-member Austrian party, led by Wilfried Studer, attempted the E Ridge and failed in autumn. The highest point of 7400m was reached by the leader Studer and Manfred Kaessler on October 7.

1983-84 An 11-member Polish party, led by Lech Korniszewski, made the first winter ascent of the mountain by the SW Face. Their progress was delayed by the fatal accident of Stanislaw Jaworski who fell to his death because the fixed rope was cut down by falling stones on December 12. They only could established three camps within the month. On January 11, Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski sneaked out in a break of high wind and made the final camp at 7700 m. Next day they struggled for five hours to climb the last 450 m and reached the summit before noon. It was the second winter ascent of 8000 er by Poles after Mt. Everest in 1980.

1983-84 A 4-member Canadian party, led by Alan Burgess, also attempted the winter ascent by the NE Face route. They had stocked C 1 at Naike Col in November, however, the summit bid by the leader and his brother Adrian was prevented by high wind on December 10. The highest point reached was 7100 m.

1984 A 4-member Yugoslav party, led by Ales Kunaver, made the fourth ascent of the SW Face in spring. They intended to climb the S Ridge and the SW Face simultaneously, but tried the latter only. They advanced three camps and on May 4, Stipe Bozic and Viktor Groselj made the summit after two bivouacs. It was only 18 days since they established BC.

1984 A 12-member West German-Swiss party, co-led by Guenter Strum and Hans Eitel, repeated the NE Face route in spring. The summit was reached by Marcel Ruedi and Erhard Loretan on April 30, Michael Dacher and Fritz Zintl on May 7, and Norbert Joos, Wolfgang Schaffert, Rudolf Schaider, Guenter Strum, Sherpas Ang Chapal and Wangyel on the 11 th.

1984 An 8-member Polish party, led by Janusz Kulis, made the first ascent of the S Ridge by the Punggyen Glacier in autumn. They spent two weeks to fix ropes to reach the col between Manaslu and Peak 29 and extended their ropes to a 7400 m point. The summit bid was made by four climbers and Krzysztof Wielicki and Aleksander Lwow made the summit on October 22.

1984 A 6-member Italian party, led by Cesare Cesa Bianchi, failed on the NE Face route in autumn. The highest point reached was 7500 m.

1985 An 8-member Austrian party, led by Wilfried Studer, made the first ascent of the E Ridge in spring. They avoided the upper portion of the ridge and made a traverse to the north and gained the summit plateau. On April 22 at 22:00, the leader Studer, Rudi Meyerhofer and Ang Kami Sherpa set out their top camp at 6500 m and the two except Meyerhofer got to the summit next afternoon. The second summit bid on May 4 was made by the direct route to the East Pinnacle by Christian Gabl, Anton Schranz and Thomas Juen but was prevented at a 7300 m point. On their way down, Juen was swept by an avalanche and fell to his death.

1985 A 9-member Japanese Aomori party, led by Iwao Tsushima, attempted the E Ridge in autumn. They established C 3 at 6300 m beyond the crux of the ridge but abandoned the summit because of bad weather which lasted for over a week from October 8.

1985 A 7-member Yeti Dojin party of Japan, led by Yoshimichi Furuhata, attempted a ski descent of the NE Face route in autumn. They established C 3 at 7200m on October 23, however, C 2 at 6400 m was overwhelmed by an avalanche two days later and Nima Norbu Sherpa was killed. The expedition was abandoned.

1985 A 7-member Spanish Party, led by Felipe Uriarte, also failed on the NE Face route in the same season. Their high point was only 6300 m.

1985 Noboru Yamada and Yasuhira Saito made the second winter ascent of the mountain by the NE Face route in alpine style in December. They set out BC on the 5th and, after three bivouacs at 5350 m, 6100 m and 6850 m, made the first summit bid on the 9th but were prevented by high wind at a 7200 m point. They, once returned to BC, started again on the 11 th. Although the snow fall forced them to spend two nights at a 6100 m point, they made the summit on the 14 th after one more bivouac at a 7050 m point. Excellent snow conditions on the summit plateau helped them to move quickly.

1986 A 16-member West German-Austrian party, led by Michael Dacher, abandoned the summit by the NE Face route in spring. On May 3, Wilhelm Kleiber was lost below C 4 and Dieter Oberbichler fell to his death at a 7200 m point on his way down from C 4. The expedition was abandoned on May 11.

1986 A 10-member Colombian-Polish party, led by Eduardo Gomez, failed on the NE Face route in autumn. They established C 4 at 7250 m on October 31, however, bad weather prevented their progress in November.

1986 A 13-member Yugoslav party, led by Jovan Popovski, made the first attempt on the SE Face by the Punggyen Glacier in autumn. They abandoned the climb at a high point of 7400 m.

1986 A 5-member Polish-Mexican party, led by Jerzy Kukuczka, climbed a new route on the NE Face in autumn. They first attempted the Austrian route on the E Ridge and was defeated at a 7750 m point in late October. They switched the route to the direct line to the East Pinnacle and the leader Kukuczka, Artur Hajzer and Carlos Carsolio set out their BC on November 5. The trio climbed in alpine style and gained the summit plateau after making bivouacs at 5500 m, 6300 m, 7300 m and 7600 m. On November 10, Kukuczka and Hajzer made the summit while Carsolio stayed at the final bivouac due to his frostbitten hands. Next day the trio descended the original NE Face route and completed the first traverse of the mountain.

1987 A 6-member Polish-Czechoslovak-West German party, led by Wojciech Szymanski, failed on the SE Face by the Punggyen Glacier in spring. They, after acclimatized on the NE Face route, the Polish trio attempted the face alone. Krzysztof Pankiewicz and Ludwik Wilczynski, climbing in alpine style, reached a 6800 m point on May 20 after three bivouacs. However, the 350 m of rock band above was covered by unstable snow and they retreated.

1987 Enric Basss and Francesc Barcelona of Spain attempted the NE Face route with only two Sherpas in spring. They established C 2 at 5600 m on April 8, but the camp was destroyed by an avalanche a few days later and they abandoned the climb.

1987 A 20-member Austrian party, led by Arthur Haid, repeated the NE Face route in autumn. On October 7, Walter Hauser, Johann Etschmayer and Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa got to the summit.

1987 A 15-member Japanese Aomori party, led by Seigo Matsushima, failed on the Austrian route on the E Ridge in autumn. They reached a 6300 m point on October 17 and established C 3, however, the camp was buried by heavy snow fall. On the 25 th, they reconstructed C 3 and reached a 6500 m point three days later. However, Ichigi Kudo who descended to BC from the highest point, was attacked by active cerebral blood vessel disorder and died. The expedition abandoned.

1988 Andrzej Machnik of Poland and Andrew Evans of America made an attempt on the NE Face in alpine style in March. They were defeated twice by heavy snow falls on the 8th and 12th. The highest point reached was 5400 m.

1988 A 6-member Italian party, led by Roberto Pe, failed on the NE Face route in spring. Their highest point was 7050 m on May 1.

1988 A 7-member Swiss party, led by Toni Spirig, Made the second ascent of the Austrian route on the E Ridge in spring. They established C 2 at 6800 m and on April 30, Beda Fuster, Richard Ott and Ursula Huber made the summit bid. The trio bivouacked at a 7500 m point and reached the summit next day. The second bid on May 10 by the leader Spirig, Ueli Stahel and Pierre-Andre Levet was defeated at a 7600 m point by bad weather.

1988  A 12-member Spanish party, led by Antonio Lopez, repeated the NE Face route in autumn. Juan Agullo and Ang Lhakpa Sherpa got to the summit on October 25.

1988 Hiroshi Hori and Junji Kurotaki of Hirosaki University from Japan attempted the same route in the same season. On October 20, the leader Hori and Motilal Gurung set out BC for their summit bid together with the Spanish party. The pair abandoned their climb at a 7500 m point on the 24 th.

1989 An 8 -member Esprit d'Equipe party, led by Benoit Chamoux of France, repeated the Austrian 1972 route on the SW Face in spring. They first planned to climb the S Ridge by the Thulagi Glacier, however, avalanche-prone slopes forced them to choose the SW Face as an alternative. All the eight climbers and a Sherpa reached the summit in May. They were; the leader Chamoux and Pierre Royer on the 9 th, Soro Dorotei and Josef Raconcaj on the 10 th, Frederic Valet and Yves Detry on the 11 th, and Alan Hinkes, Mauro Rossi and Tilta Tamang on the 12 th.

1989 A 6-member American-Spanish party, led by Keith Brown, ended in a tragedy on the NE Face in spring. On May 7, when three climbers were headed for C 5 at 7280 m, Santiago Suarez slipped at a 7250 m point and fell 250 m to his death.

1989 A 6-member Italian party, led by Oscar Piazza, failed in an attempt on the E Ridge in spring. The highest point reached was 7300 m.

1989 A 3-member British party, led by Mark Dixon, attempted the SW Face in semi-alpine style in autumn and failed. The leader Dixon and Adrian Parson reached their highest point of 7000 m on October 27.

1989 A 13-member American party, led by Adrian Burgess, failed on the NE Face route in autumn. Their highest point of 7060 m was reached on October 25.

1989 A Austrian-West German-Swiss party, led by Horst Frankhauser, also failed on the NE Face reaching 7300 m on October 10.

1989 A 4-member Himalaya Dojin party of Japan, led by Masaaki Fukushima, also failed. They reached 7400 m on the NE Face route on October 17.

1989 A 3-member Spanish party, led by Carles Gel, reached only 6000 m on the same route in September.

1990 A 9-member American party, led by Donald Goodman, met with a disaster on the NE Face route in March. On the 27th, Nancy Jackson, Charlie Schertz and Nima Wangchuk Sherpa, who were descending from C 1 to BC, were buried by an avalanche and killed. The expedition was abandoned at the highest point of 4990 m.

1990 A 6-member Italian party, led by Fausto De Stefani, climbed the same route in spring. On April 26, the leader De Stefani got to the summit alone.

1990 A 6-member Swiss-French party, led by Dominique Neuenschwander, attempted a ski descent of the same route in spring. They abandoned the climb at 6000 m on April 29.

1990  A 12-member Spanish party, led by Juan Fernando Azcona, failed on the NE Face route in autumn. The highest point of 6400 m was reached on October 1.

1990 An 8-member Kazakhstani party, led by Kazbek Valiev, attempted the SE Face in autumn. They established a high camp at 7000 m on October 5 and next day, Murat Galiev, Grigori Lunyakov and Zinur Khalitov climbed the rock band. They made a rapid progress and when they gained five pitches, a sudden slip of the leading climber resulted in all members' fall and their deaths.

1990 A 6-member British party, led by Ron Rutland, failed on the NE Face route in December. Their highest point was 6000 m on the 10 th.

1990-91 Eric Monier of France attempted a solo ascent of the SW Face in winter. He reached a 7950 m point on the summit plateau on January 6 but intense cold and high wind prevented him to continue to the summit. He safely descended to a 6000 m point by the evening and survived.

1991 A 5-member Swiss party, led by Franco Delatorre, abandoned their climb at a 6450 m point on the NE Face in spring.

1991 A 15-member Anglo-Irish party, co-led by Dawson Stelfox and Frank Nugent, also failed on the NE Face route in spring. They only reached at a 6100 m point on April 27.

1991 A 12-member Italian-German party, led by Hans Kammerlander, attempted the NE Face and lost two climbers in spring. On May 10, Kammerlander, Friedl Mutschlechner and Karl Grossrubatscher set out their C 2 at 7000 m for the summit bid but only Kammerlander reached a 7500 m point and retreated. On the way down to C 2, Grossrubatscher was found dead near the camp. Kammerlander and Mutschlechner joined at C 2 and continued to descend. When they reached some 100 m above C 1, a sudden thunder storm came in and Mutschlechner was killed by lightning.

1991 A 9-member Ukrainian party, led by Vladimir Shumichin, made an attempt on the SE Face in spring. They advanced three camps and reached a 7200 m point. The route above was difficult and they had to shift to the Polish route on the S Ridge on April 24. Aleksei Makarov, Igor Svergun and Viktor Pastuch set out to the climb in alpine style on May 1 and got to the summit on the 6th. They descended the NE Face route with two more bivouacs and completed the traverse of the mountain.

1991 A 7-member Spanish party, led by Antoni Llasera, failed on the NE Face route in autumn. The highest point of 7900 m was reached on October 6.

1991 A 9-member Italian party, led by Oreste Forno, also failed on the NE Face. The highest point of 7100m was reached twice on September 28 and October 8.

1991 An 18-member Swiss party, led by Bruno Jelk, sent two climbers to the summit by the NE Face route in autumn. On October 25, Mauro Ferrari and Horst Brantschen reached the summit.

1991 A 7-member American party, led by Austin Weiss, attempted the SW Face in autumn. Their summit bid on October 22 was prevented at a 7800 m point.

1992  A 10-member Korean party, led by Tea-Kyu Park, climbed the NE Face route and sent two members to the summit in autumn. On September 25 at 18:00, Young-Cheol Lee and Nawang Phurba Sherpa reached the summit. On their way down they had to bivouac at a 7900 m point and were severely frostbitten and evacuated from BC.

1992 A 12-member International party, led by Krzysztof Wielicki, also climbed the same route in the same season. On September 28, the leader Wielicki, Marco Bianchi and Christian Kuntner made the summit and found that the steps of the Korean summitters three days ago stopped at the fore summit which located some 180 m away from the main summit. The second bid team of two were killed by separate accidents. Sylwia Domowska fell to her death at a 7200 m point on October 2 and Sven Vermeiren also fell to his death on his way down to C 2 next day.

1992 A Canadian party, led by Michael Galbraith, also attempted the same route. Their summit bid on October 1 was prevented at a 8050 m point.

1993 An 8-member Austrian party, led by Arthur Haid, repeated the NE Face route in spring. Josef Brunner, Gerhard Frossman, Josef Hinding and Michael Leuprecht made the summit on May 2.

1993 An 11-member Italian party, led by Paolo Paglino, repeated the SW Face in autumn. On October 13, Silvio Mondinelli got to the summit alone.

1993  A 10-member Austrian party, led by Sepp Inhaeger, climbed the NE Face route in autumn. The leader Inhaeger reached the summit alone on October 15.

1993 A 9-member Russian party, led by Valery Karpenko, also made the summit by the same route in autumn. Vladimir Lopatnikov got to the summit on October 19 and Igor Khmiliar and Ekaterina Ivanova also made the summit two days later. On their way down, Khmiliar fell to his death. Moreover Sergei Yadrishnikov was killed by an avalanche at C 2 at 6200 m on the 23 th.

1993 A 6-member German-Austrian party, led by Heinz Schauer, failed on the NE Face route in autumn. The highest point of 7300m was reached on October 6.

1994 A 7-member Swiss party, led by Andre Georges, climbed the NE Face route in autumn. On October 19, the leader Georges and Armand Salamin got to the summit while Chantal Mauduit from France abandoned at a 7600 m point.

1995  An 11-member German party, led by Holger Kloss, repeated the NE Face route in spring. Their summit bid was made from a high camp at 6100 m in alpine style. On May 7, Joerg Bartock, Thomas Steffen and Michael Zunk got to the summit after five bivouacs, however, on their way down, Zunk fell to his death. The day before, Joerg Schtarke who had abandoned the summit also fell to his death.

1995 An 8-member Kathmandu Club of Japan party, led by Ken Kanazawa, failed on the NE Face route in autumn. The first summit bid on May 13, by Mamoru Taniguchi, Satoshi Kimoto and Hiroshi Hori was defeated at a 7400 m point due to avalanche danger. The second bid on the 16th by the leader Kanazawa and three others with three Sherpas also was prevented at the same point. Finally Kimoto and Hori attempted the third bid but was defeated by snow falls.

1995 A 12-member Kazakhstani party, led by Kazbek Valiev, made the third winter ascent of the mountain by the NE Face in December. The summit was reached on the 8th by Yuri Moiseev, Alexander Baimakhanov, Shafkhat Gataoulin, Dimitri Sobolev, Oleg Malikov, Vladimir Souviga and Dimitri Mouraev.

1996 A 9-member Tibetan Mountaineering Association party, led by Samdruk, made the summit by the NE Face route in spring. The summit was reached by Tshering Dorje, Ren Na, Akebu and Pemba Tashi on May 3, and Wangyal, Gyalbu, Dachung and Lodue (Lho Tse) on the 4 th.

1996 Carlos Carsolio of Mexico, with his brother Alfredo, made the summit on May 12 by the NE Face route and became the fourth climber to complete all the 14-8000 er after Messner, Kukuczka and Loretan

1996  A German-Austrian-Swiss party, led by Ernst Schwarzenlander, abandoned their attempt on the NE Face route in spring. The highest point of 6700m was reached on May 10.

1996 Chantal Mauduit from France climbed the NE Face route in spring. She had climbed Pumori on 28 April and Lhotse on May 10. Then, she flew by helicopter to the foot of Manaslu and attacked her third mountain with Ang Tshering Sherpa. He became very tired on their final push to the summit on 24 May and stopped an hour and a half below the very top to wait for her. It was the fifth 8 000er for Mauduit.

 

return to home