THE ALPINE CLUB OF AICHI GAKUIN UNIVERSITY

MT. EVEREST EXPEDITION

1994

Michio YUASA

Summary of Expedition

 

[] Prologue

 Spring in 1994. We sent the expedition to Mt. Everest organized and conducted by Hon. Hashimoto Ryutaro (Patron) and Prof. Dr. Yuasa Michio (General Leader). The expedition had the following three objectives.

 () To climb Mt. Everest through the South Pillar route.

   7 Japanese climbers and 17 Nepalese climbers led by Teranishi Nobuo (Leader), Hongo Mitsuyoshi (Climbing Leader) and Lhakpa Tenzing (Sirder).

 () To do Medical Research and Dental Clinic Service.

   15 Japanese dentist members and 3 Nepalese members led by Prof. Dr. Ohno Norikazu and Dr. R.T. Basnyat.

 () To do activities of Environmental protection.

   12 Japanese members led by Dr. Nishio Nobuyoshi.

 

[] Mountaineering ; Diary of Events.

January

  4Hashimoto, Honorary Leader and Yuasa, General Leader, arrive at Kathmandu for final briefing.

February

 15Hongo, Takamura and Atsuta, three members of the Climbing Party four members of the Environmental Conservation Party arrive at Kathmandu from Nagoya via Hong Kong by air.

 22Fujita arrives in Kathmandu.

 26Suzuki and Hamatani arrive in Kathmandu.

March

  1Ishikawa was the last member of the Climbing Party to arrive in Kathmandu.

 11Horie, Miyano and Sugama, three members of the Environmental Conservation Party, who arrived earlier, reach the summit of Island Peak (Only two out of 18 parties succeeded in the spring of this year).

 17The Climbing Party attempted to climb the summit of Island Peak for environmental conservation and acclimation purposes, but had to withdraw because of strong wind.

 23Ishikawa, Suzuki, Takamura and Atsuta arrive at the Base Camp.

 26Fujita arrives at the Base Camp.

 28Hongo arrives at the Base Camp. The Base Camp (5,400 m) was set up.

 30Hamada arrives at the Base Camp.

April

  2Camp 1 (6,050 m) was set up.

  7Camp 2 (6,680 m) was set up.

 18Camp 3 (7,600 m) was set up.

 23Camp 4 (8,100 m) was set up.

25-May 2Suzuki, Takamura and Atsuta take a rest at Deboche.

 30Nishio, leader of the Environmental Conservation Party and three members of the Science Party arrive at the Base Camp.

May

  2Yuasa, General Leader, arrives at Lobuche for final discussion on attack. Yuasa had a discussion with Teranishi, Leader, Hongo, Leader of the Climbing Party, and Sirder all night long.

  3Teranishi, Leader, Ishikawa, a reporter for the Chunichi Shimbun, three supporting members and Hamatani arrive at the Base Camp.

  4Suzuki and Atsuta leave the Base Camp and arrive at Camp 2.

  5Strong wind forced Suzuki and Atsuta to stay at Camp 2. Takamura leaves the Base Camp and arrives at Camp 2.

  6Suzuki and Atsuta arrive at Camp 3.

  7Suzuki and Atsuta arrive at Camp 4.

  8Suzuki Atsuta and four Sherpas reach the summit at 1020. Ishikawa arrives at Camp 1. Takamura, who was in poor condition, left Camp 2.

  9Suzuki and Atsuta arrive at Camp 2 from Camp 4. Ishikawa arrives at Camp 2. Fujita leaves the Base Camp and arrives at Camp 2.

 10Suzuki and Atsuta arrive at the Base Camp from Camp 2. Ishikawa and Fujita arrive at Camp 3.

 11Ishikawa and Fujita arrive at Camp 4. Fujita returns to Camp 2.

 12Ishikawa was forced to stand still because of strong wind.

 13Ishikawa and three Sherpas reach the summit at 830, and return to Camp 4.

 14Ishikawa arrives at Camp 2 from Camp 4.

 15Ishikawa arrives at the Base Camp from Camp 2.

 17The Base Camp was removed.

30All members of the Expedition arrive at their home.

 

 In conclusion, our three major objectives had been accomplished without any victims as follows;

 () 3 Japanese climbers (including 57 years old climber) and 7 Nepalese climbers reached the Summit through the climbing route of South Pillar.

 () Dental research and service team also obtained very good results.

 () Mainly, 60 Oxygen cylinders and around 20,000 pieces of batteries, neglected by the Past Expeditions at over the Base Camp, had been taken out and send to Japan.