INDO (ITBP)-JAPAN (HAC)

AQ・TASH EXPEDITION 1993

HIROSHIMA ALPINE CLUB

 

The summary of the activity of Japanese members is as follows.

 

7/17 Sasoma - Camp of Army

7/18 Camp of Army - BC (4 800 m)

7/21  We began climbing mountain. We set up C 1 (5 600 m) and decided climbing route.

7/22-23 We carried climbing goods up to C 1.

7/24 Okamoto and Yoshioka searched the route in the South Wall and fixed rope up to the point of 5,900 m.  Other member carried up the climbing goods to C 1.

7/25 Nagoshi, Yokoyama, Mizote searched the route and fixed rope up to the point of 6,150 m.

7/26 Nagoshi, Yokoyama, Mizote searched route and fixed the rope to the point of 6,200 m.

7/27-30 We cut the ice at the place of C 2 (6,200 m) and made tent-site and set the tent of C 2.

7/31  Nagoshi and Okamoto searched the route and fixed rope up to the point of 6,550 m. They reached up to Upper-Snow-Face.

8/1  All members stayed at C 1 or C 2.

8/2  Yamamoto and Mizote searched route and fixed rope to the point of 6,700 m up to Rock-Nose in Upper-Rock-Area. They stayed at C 2 at night.

8/3  Yamamoto and Mizote went down from C 2 to C 1. Nagoshi, Okamoto, Yokoyama climb up to C 2 from C 1. They stayed at C 2 at night.

8/4  We stayed at C 1 or C 2 because of bad weather.

8/5  Nagoshi, Okamoto, Yokoyama attacked the summit. They climbed Upper-Rock-Area and had much difficulty to climb through the Rock Area. It was very bad weather.

 At last, they climbed up through that area and reached to the Snow Face under the Summit at the point of 6 870 m at 16:00. But, they did not go up to the summit and go down to C 1 because they had an idea that Indian members must be the first-summitter. Yamamoto and Mizote Climbed up to C 2 from C 1 at night.

8/6  Yamamoto and Mizote started for the summit from C 2 at AM. 2:00. They arrived at the point of the end of Upper Rock Area at AM. 12:00. They climbed about 180 m from there in the snow face, and at last they reached the summit. Yamamoto arrived at the summit at 14:10. Mizote arrived at the summit at 14:30.

 They could not have fine view around the summit, because the weather bacame very bad.

 They withdrew some fix-ropes and went down to C 2 at night.

8/7  Yamamoto and Mizote withdrew C 2 and fix-ropes under C 2 but they abandoned the ropes above C 2 because we had to withdraw C 1 on 8th August then we had not enough time for withdrawing. They went down to C 1 in the evening.

8/8  We withdrew C 1 and went down to BC.  We and Porters carried down the all climbing goods to BC.

8/9  We stayed at BC whole day.

8/10-11 We work and pack our climbing goods.

8/13 BC-Sasoma